Monday, January 28, 2013

Plush


For anyone whose activities are conducted outdoors it’s a blessing and a curse relying on, and being at the mercy of, nature and the elements.  There’s nothing like spending a day basking in the warm sun or even being comfortably chilled in the peaceful serenity of a natural landscape, far removed from the hustle and bustle of the work week and the mindless distractions of our ever expanding digital world.  The curses are days like my entry “Forlorn Desperation” where soaking rain turns rock into a dangerous waterslide.  Or when I have to relentlessly check and recheck weather forecasts hoping for a succession of cold days to form climbable ice.  As long as I can get out, I’ll manage and I try my best not to complain even on oppressively hot/humid days as well as the brutally cold ones.  But rain, or lack of winter, can and will shut down rock and ice climbing and there’s really nothing to be done about it (except for maybe gym climb). 


Reflecting over this, I can’t help but hear Scott Weiland singing Stone Temple Pilot’s classic “Plush” where he says, “…and I feel so much depends on the weather”.  We’ve been blessed recently with a stretch of frigid weather and I had been hopeful that a bit of ice would form at a nearby crag on a grungy, wet, more or less featureless wall of chossy rock usually too soggy or vegetated to climb during the regular season.  As it turns out, I was right and would have a chance to sample a bit of rare Jersey Ice less than 30 minutes from my doorstep instead of having to make the two and half hour drive north to the Catskills.


The most obvious climbable formation was a gorgeous 30 foot ice pillar that despite its modest height would attract almost any ice addict with its aesthetic properties.  The pillar is wide enough for two variations; the right side goes at about WI2+ (mostly vertical ice, with foot rests near the top), and the center felt like it was WI3- (sustained vertical ice).  There was a third variation to the left (mixed, with lots of stemming) but the overhanging curtain looked a bit too weak the line itself seemed very easy and even a bit contrived.  I ran laps up and down this ice for nearly 90 minutes until my arms could barely swing, it was fantastic!  This wall is over 200 feet long but due to its poor characteristics only has two established rock climbs and there are no documented ice climbs.  Not sure if this is a first ascent, but I’m going to call this route Plush (WI2+/3-).
 
Plush


I should note that my wife had joined me to climb but had unfortunately ended up being my belay slave.  We thought that she’d be able to use my boots and crampons but it turns out my size 9 boots are 3 sizes too big for her (she would be a size 6, Men’s).  We were optimistic it would work, and she even wore extra socks, but the boots were just too wobbly on her as she tried to kick into the ice.  I give her a lot of credit for shrugging it off and willing to hang out and belay me for a little while (love you, babe!).  I recently ordered a second pair of crampons, Petzl Lynx, and will look into getting her a pair of Mountaineering Boots.

 
It didn’t too long for me to exhaust myself and we were home in time for lunch.  And I was able to return her the favor and look after our son so she would have the time to go on a 2-mile run that afternoon (she has been training for her first 5k race which less than 6 weeks from now).  I am very proud of her commitment to what she calls “her running start towards self-discovery” and am very thankful that she was such a good sport with letting me enjoy a quick ice session. 
 
 

SEND!
 
 

Friday, January 25, 2013

Devil’s Kitchen Froze Over

On Wednesday, January 23 temperatures in the Catskills hovered in the single digits.  The winter so many of us had been chasing for so long had finally arrived, and was now chasing after us.  My partner for the day is veteran climber and 2012 AMGA President’s Award recipient Joe Vitti.  The two of us braved the numbing cold and the steel-tempered ice in effort to embrace full-on-winter ice climbing on a day that for me, the conditions had been at their harshest.  This would be my sixth time ice climbing (half of my ice climbing experiences were in the month of January 2013).  Quite a difference from my rock climbing; I have spent somewhere around 50 days climbing outside and likely an equal amount of days climbing indoors.

Our day began in Devil’s Kitchen, located in Platte Cove.  Joe and I rappelled into the gully right above Stairway to Heaven (WI3-4).  The pillar on the lower section of this route was very narrow and made for difficult climbing, even when I used the rock wall nearby for footing.  The ice was iron hard, and refused to yield to my axes.  I would pound the ice only to have it break into pieces.  Getting good “sticks” was tough, and by the time I had topped the pillar I was completely pumped with another 30 feet of climbing left.  The upper section was in the sun and much softer but the ice was dripping and my face was getting splashed with freezing cold water.  Stairway was a very, very tough climb to start the day with but once I finished and lowered I had at least warmed up quite a bit from the effort.      
 
Stairway to Heaven
 
Joe and I moved into the lower section of Devil’s Kitchen by traversing over the top of the left side so we could again rappel down a route from the top.  The next route, appropriately named Third Corner (WI4-), is part of a series of corner facing climbs along the left wall (left side, facing down into the gully).  The wall includes the mega classic Catskills moderate, Purgatory (M5, WI5-).  Third Corner felt more even and sustained then bottom-heavy Stairway, but the ice was just as dense and difficult to stick without having it shatter.  On my first attempt I was exhausted just past the halfway point and came down for a rest.  As I was being lowered, I heard voices coming from around the corner and saw that one of them was Ryan Stefiuk.  I watched Ryan cruise up Purgatory on lead, completely amazed by his athleticism and poise.  Refreshed by the spectacle, I finished Third Corner on my second go, but had to stop a few feet from the top as the ice was barley coating the blank rock wall.  Most of the remaining climbs in Devil’s Kitchen were in the WI4 range so Joe suggested we go to another location, as I was struggling with that grade.  I feel like WI4 is where I should be climbing comfortably by season’s end with a little more practice (WI5 is considered “moderate”).  I’m not completely flailing, or failing at that grade, but it’s definitely challenging and takes a lot of energy.  Again, I have to remind myself ice climbing is not rock climbing and I’m still new at it and have quite a lot to learn.
 
Third Corner
Exit, going "up" out of Devil's Kitchen (wall I climbed is on right)
 
A short drive from Platte Cove to Moore’s Bridge in Kaaterskill Clove allowed us to briefly warm up before trudging up the road to climb The Gully (WI2-3).  The Gully is a long climb with several tiers before it becomes more sustained-vertical towards the top (top is definitely WI3).  Joe lead and I followed cleaning gear.  This climb was definitely more within my abilities but it was the end of a very cold, very long, and very difficult day and I found myself utterly exhausted as I closed in the last few feet that remained of the climb.  Joe graciously lowered me off so I wouldn’t have to set up a rappel and I immediately began packing up my gear once I reached the ground.  I was physically spent, absolutely chilled to the bone, and weary of my two and half hour drive to get back home.  Despite being beat down by the weather and getting my ass kicked on the ice, I had a really good day and felt that by challenging myself on these harder routes I’ve gained more experience than I would have by playing it safe on easier routes.  Joe and I said goodbye and I left with a feeling that I’m chipping away at this inexplicable goal I have with regards to my climbing…be it to become a better climber, a more experienced climber, or just well-traveled climber who has had his share of days, all varying in different degrees.  Coming back to my house and seeing my wife, my son, and my two dogs can pretty much make any day, regardless of how it’s spent, a good one.         


 
The Gully
Entering sustained WI3 climbing on The Gully

Relieved to be approaching the final few feet of climbing
 
    

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Th(in)

Ice is a capricious medium.  Even when it’s “In”, it still plays host to a variety of unpredictable factors.  And when it’s “Thin” and just barely climbable, it becomes even more volatile as its bond to the rock and physical structure may not support a climber’s weight and could easily break apart or completely detach from the wall.  Conditions in the Catskills over the Martin Luther King Holiday weekend were severely compromised after several unseasonably warm days.  My wife and I had booked an overnight getaway in nearby Saugerties (Diamond Mills – fantastic hotel and restaurant).  After arriving on Saturday we hiked to the summit of Overlook Mountain and managed to stay very warm in soft-shell jackets over light baselayers, often hiking without our jackets on.  We had planned to climb Sunday but with the warm temperatures and a warning that the ice wasn’t climbable, we were very unsure we could make it happen.  But we made the trip and were determined to have a go at it.  I called a local guide service and spoke with a guide who confirmed there was barely anything to climb.  However, he said he could probably find us some ice…albeit thin, short and likely at a seldom visited, lesser-quality cragging area than an established location.  And on that balmy Sunday morning, we lucked out.       


I scheduled a half-day of climbing to accommodate my wife.  She has ice climbed before, and was actually very excited to go.  But a shorter day is much easier on her and we were both eager to get back to our 14-month old son, who we had left in the care of his Grandparents the day before.  Our guide, Alan Kline (super cool guy) met us a few miles from Hunter Mountain at Maggie’sKrooked CafĂ© (awesome place).  Earlier, he took a ride out to Stony Clove and said that there was some ice behind the lake area that may be worth checking out.  A short hike through talus and boulders led to a series of rock outcrops and short cliffs.  Some of the rock had a little bit of ice, but most were completely without.  Situation wasn’t looking good, but Alan led us along.  And I have to say, I was pretty damn amazed when he found us two small walls with climbable th(in) ice.
 

The day was perfect for my wife.  The ice was soft; a waxy plastic texture that swallowed picks and points.  The first wall we came to was divided by a ledge into two sections; the lower section was less than 20 feet and the upper section maybe just over 10 feet.  The climbing was challenging enough without being too easy, and the short sections and rest ledge helped made it attainable for my wife to have several climbs.  And after a few tries she figured it out and was getting solid sticks, working her crampons to get into good stances, and moving with real proficiency.  Me?  I was cruising.  I had a couple of slips and needed rests to shake out my arms, but for me this was all fun. 


Given the ice was so thin and the rock was peeking through, Alan suggested I try a mixed-line on the far left side of the face.  The lower section was a very thin veil of ice…all light taps and delicate steps.  The upper section was mostly exposed rock with the last few feet having a light coating of ice.  I made it through the lower section rather quickly but the top would be a mixed-climbing “boulder problem” that I found to be extremely physical. I worked myself into a huge horizontal gap (at least two feet high) that created a roof-exit type of scenario onto overhanging terrain.  I put my entire light leg into the gap and gently placed the front points of my right crampon on a weak curtain of ice.  I managed to get up a step just as the curtain broke off but it revealed small steps just big enough to get the tips of my points on and I inched my way up into a comfortable stance. I was able to get my right tool was in a good ice placement and I worked my left tool until I had it torqued sideways in a horizontal crack.  Moving up to the next move would be difficult but it was likely the second-before-the last set of moves before I would top out.  I gripped my left tool (in the rock) and stood up on my toes to get my right tool higher.  But as I did this my left tool popped out and the hammer side smashed into my upper lip.  Stunned, I had to be lowered off.  There was a cut in my moustache and inside of my lip was swollen, but I wasn’t injured.  My first experience with dry tooling was definitely interesting.  Alan told me the section I was climbing was pretty burly and that it was a proud attempt, and my wife seemed impressed by the effort.                 


We had climbed the wall from left to right (3 ice lines, 1 mixed line) and decided to move on to another wall we had passed earlier in the day.  By then it was around 12pm and temps were nearly in the 50s.  We attempted to climb a pillar formation but as I started up, ice began breaking off with every tool swing and my boots were swimming in slush.  Then a big piece of ice came off and hit my already tender face and we pretty much knew then that the pillar would not stand if we climbed it.  Our half day was about to end anyway, so nobody was complaining…in fact, we boasted of how lucky we were that day to find climbable ice that we had all to ourselves.  The parking lot at Stony Clove was full of cars, and all day were heard the crashing of ice falling off the walls off the East and West Sides…must have been a miserable day for a lot of people.  I am very thankful for my resourceful guide, very thankful for the luck we had, very thankful to not have suffered anything more than a superficial wound, and very thankful that my wife enjoyed herself on a memorable climbing day.     
 
Happy Couple!
Wifey getting ready to send!
 

Lower Section

Upper Section

Topped Out


Mixed Sequence

Busted

By the end of the day the Ice was falling apart




 

 



Monday, January 14, 2013

Forlorn Desperation


A soggy warm front has bullied its way into the North East and Old Man Winter is retreating.  Weekend temps nearly reached the 50’s and likely wreaked havoc on ice as far north as the Adirondacks.  On Saturday I decided to revisit the “New Year Wall”, and this time with equipment and a partner.  We consented to a late start, and I was under the impression this would be to our benefit as the forecasters were calling for afternoon sun.  But when we arrived at the cliff around 1:30, the mountain was blanketed in layers of fog and the sun was behind a wall of gray.  The approach was a little more difficult this time without the snow pack and now with the weight of a full climbing pack on while roving through the unkempt bush and scattered boulders.  We saw a small coyote scrambling across the wet ledges and I shouted to scare him (or any of his friends) away.  Along the under cliff, wild thorn branches were now freed from their snowy graves and ruthlessly defended the rock.  All these things harbinger just how wild and unexplored this mountain truly is.    

I remember the New Year Wall having two distinct weaknesses that could possibily serve as access points to reach the top.  The first and likely the easiest, is a gully on the far left side (near the “half-pipe” slab) and the other, and likely a roped climb, a chimney on its far left side (the blocky overhanging section).  My partner and I entered the gully and saw that it was in no condition to attempt.  Not only was the rock covered with soaked moss and lichen, it was being further lubricated a steady trickling of water.  I also got to see up close that the gully is not a simple walk-up.  It is certainly attainable as a short free climb (hands and feet required) but under these wet conditions it is not safe to attempt.  The left side chimney, a full-on committed climb, was drenched as well.
 
I was beginning to worry.  I didn’t bring myself or my partner out here for this.  I decided to continue to my left, hoping to find an access ramp or opening in the rocks.  Looking up at the chaos of zigzagging ledges and the lack of trees to rappel from in case I found myself needing to retreat and avoid a dangerous down climb, the “fear monkey” climbed on my back and began his hysterical chatter.  Nothing but vertical rock and slip-and-slide switchbacks that go nowhere but up seemed to glare at me with contempt.  How ironic since I first wondered if this place had any climbing and now the abundance of climbing is forbidding me to even climb!  I tell my partner to stay behind as I become entangled in a cluster of thorn branches.  I decide that the only way to salvage the day and the only way up, is for me to earn it. 

I’m now approaching what I had thought on my previous visit was a giant slab.  Between me and the rock wall is a huge boulder that I scramble up using a nearby tree to brace myself and push off of.  Below the other side of the boulder lays a shattered tree in a ditch, but above me stands what looks like one of the most enjoyable 5.fun climbs I’ve ever seen. The giant slab is actually a low-angled series of small steps and shelves that cruises up for about 30 feet before ending with a ledge and then seems continues on up to another a wall of rock.  Intrigued, I begin working my way up ropeless, taking careful steps along the strips of stone and locking my fingers around any feature I could fully grip for fear of my feet slipping off.  I made it up 10-15 feet but couldn’t find any gear placements and decided it would be best to retreat since the rock was unprotectable for a lead attempt and a free solo is certainly out of the question.  I also didn’t see any natural anchors (trees) and I wasn’t going to chance ditching gear on a rappel that I might not be able to construct on featureless rock.  Again, I find myself thrilled with climbs emerging around every corner but frustrated with my limited technical skills to pursue them.  The problem is simple – my leading ability is inadequate.  I’m not ready to go Spiderman up the rock just yet.  I need to get ABOVE these climbs first, build an anchor, walk-off descend, and climb them on top-rope first.  I need to be familiarized with the terrain and the difficulty of the climbs. 
 
Lookng up at the features of the "fun" climb
 
I return to my partner with the bad news but vow not to let our day become a complete wash.  We march back to our packs and I realize all that remains is to build a pathetic short top-rope over a small outcropping just before where the New Year Wall begins.  I use it an opportunity to explain to my partner how to set up a textbook “bunny ear” top-rope climb using a static rope.  My partner is new to the outdoors but strong gym climber (climbs 5.11’s, leads indoors) and knows how to belay.  For what I had anticipated our day to be, I had an apt partner.  My partner’s inexperience combined with my limited experience and us attempting any “adventure climbing” on virgin territory is a recipe for disaster.  I had mistakenly anticipated the ease of which I could access New Year Wall’s climbs.  Taking a risk that day just for the sake of getting in a climb would have been stupid and could have possibly left me injured or in need of a rescue. 
 
I took a lot of time putting together my thoughts for this post because that day was a unique learning experience.  There are countless lessons from this day that I could share but I think the most important is that it's best sometimes to humbly accept defeat if it means you can live to fight and climb another day.  My partner is interested in making a return trip (when conditions improve) and I take some solace in knowing that despite having a lousy day they are inspired to come back and give it another go.  Me?  I have to say in spite of all the punches I took and being a bit wobbly on my stool I’m ready for a 3rd round.  And for this fight I am happy to go the distance.      

Friday, January 4, 2013

West Side, Stony Clove


 
Winter 2011-2012 was a complete dud.  Temps held steady in the mid-40’s, there were only a couple of snow “dustings”, and even something as reliable as waking up to a morning frost was rare occurrence.  Days Skiing, Zero.  Days Ice Climbing, One.  Winter 2012-2013 is still a bit on the warm side but definitely much colder than the previous year.  Temps in New Jersey hover in the mid-to-upper 30s, occasionally dropping into the 20s.  But up north, in the Catskills, it’s full on winter with at least a foot of snow pack and glorious ice covered rock.   

My partner for the day is Bigfoot Mountain Guide, Ryan Stefiuk.  I first met Ryan back in January 2012 for a day of Catskills Ice Climbing and again in September for a marathon day of 5.fun classic climbing at The Gunks.  Ryan is a very experienced, very accomplished, and very proficient climber with an incredible amount of knowledge and I’ve adopted him as a mentor.  When we met up that morning in Saugerties and began loading gear into my trunk I noticed how ridiculously his gargantuan-size 15 boots (hence the moniker, Bigfoot) dwarf my average size-9 boots.  I felt sort of like John Connor’s character from Terminator 2 when he realized the cyborg killing machine played by Arnold Schwarzenegger would be his personal body guard.

This would be my third Catskills trip, fourth ice climbing experience.  I first climbed Stony Clove’s East Side back in February 2011 with my wife.  Later, in March 2011, while visiting Smuggler’s Notch my wife and I climbed a man-made ice wall (set over an outdoor gym-climbing wall).  And last year’s visit to the Dark Side at Platte Cove with Ryan.  For this trip, we went to Stony Clove’s West Side.  All routes were lead by Ryan, with me following and cleaning gear.  The climbs we did were Climax, WI2+, Ice Capades, WI2+, The Entertainer, WI3+, and Ron’s Gully, WI2+ (grades found on Mountain Project, conditions may + or – a grade).
 
 
 

 
Starting off I was a bit awkward.  I quickly tired my hands on the first climb by overgripping my tools.  Not so much from holding on to them for dear life as it was bad technique and a brand new pair of heavy gloves.  Ryan advised me on gripping the tools lower and letting the leashes do more of the work.  I felt much better on the second route and while on its steeper sections I found my focus and fell into a rhythm.  Our third climb, The Entertainer (between 3+ and 4- that day), Ryan suggested that if needed to I could deviate from his direct line and take the path of least resistance, even to leave some of the screws for him to clean on rappel.  I almost took it as a challenge and charged up the route, attacking the bulges and making it a matter of pride that I retrieve every piece of gear.  It was an ugly grovel and I had to call take several times, but I managed to top out with each and every screw and draw, completely exhausted.  We finished the day with a climb on Ron’s Gully.  Just before the anchors there was a short bulge that looked like a worthwhile challenge.  I found myself in a very awkward foot stance and trying to score a solid front point placement with limited room to kick and repeatedly bashed my knees.  After lowering, Ryan was able to break down for me what I was doing wrong, and then show me the proper way to advance from the position I was in.  Problem is that I’m used to rock climbing and not much of it transfers to ice.  Ice and Rock are limited in their similarities.  For example, standing on your toes works great on rock but on ice it will send you sliding.  Learning these sort things and being able to execute them takes a great deal of time, a whole lot of practice, and a good deal of patience. 
 

 







 




But despite some initial difficulties and having to scratch and crawl my way up through a few sections, I had a really good time.  You would think from my account of the day I was strictly focused on technique but the honest truth is that I was there just to be there and climbed without any expectations of performance.  And again, it’s only my fourth time.  Ice Season isn’t always a given.  Ice is a fickle medium that relies on so many variables that it should be considered a blessing when it does form and those who climb it should focus on making it as enjoyable as possible.  I am happy that I was introduced to ice climbing, happy to have had a chance to go ice climbing, and am very hopeful to continue ice climbing.   

 




 


 



Thursday, January 3, 2013

Rock Adventures - New Year Exploring

New Jersey isn’t what you would call a destination state.  The State’s longest, hardest, and proudest lines are probably found on Mt. Tammany.  And given Tammany’s negative reputation for loose rock, choss, vegetation, as well as being overshadowed by the nearby Gunks’ World Class Trad Climbing, only a few hardcore locals climb here and it’s usually in lieu of a Gunks trip.  The next best location, Allamuchy, does have a handful of short quality climbs on good rock but is often crowded with guided groups and stationary top-ropers.  And like with any small crag, over time the intrigue dissipates with repetition.  Beyond that there is a short list of documented worthwhile climbing in the Garden State. Many times while considering a day of Jersey Climbing we end up collectively shrugging our shoulders and saying, “Well, all we have to do is drive another hour and we’ll be at The Gunks”.  And truth be told, driving the extra hour is usually worth it.     

I’ve been blessed and cursed with a longing to do what nobody else does.  I don’t consider myself extraordinarily brave.  Most of the climbing I do is pretty tame.  However, I do consider myself to be somewhat bold in my endeavors and certainly adventurous in my undertakings.  I don’t climb to push grades as much as I climb to push myself to go higher.  There are very few frontiers left in this world.  Juxtaposing my climbing with exploring gives me a sense of going into a hidden realm.  Going far and beyond for an epic adventure is not always realistically attainable.  But seeking out the obscure in your own backyard (or in my case, within my own State) just may prove to be a satisfying outing on its own.  An entry in the New Jersey Guidebook, less than a paragraph, says that a particular location has “climbing possibilities”.  I pack myself an extra jacket, cliff bar, water and compass and go by myself, without any encouragement, other than a slim chance of maybe finding something. On New Year’s Day 2013 I called the bluff on that vague suggestion, and here is what I found...     

At first, it was nothing but rubble…just an endless band of broken boulders.  It was obvious why this area has no distinction of climbing or even bouldering, there’s nothing.  But the band keeps going so I follow.  The only tracks in the snow are mine and a deer.  Besides the crunch of my boots, the ping of falling icicles, and the cry of a predatory bird its pure wild and winter stillness and I feel like could just as easily be a thousand miles from civilization while in this setting.  I press on but keep telling myself that the next corner is the last corner until I finally come to a wall of solid rock.

These pictures are of an area roughly 200 feet long.  I divided it into two sections. The “Face” is the curving slab capped by a rounded overhang.  And just past that is an “Overhanging Blocky Section” with a chimney.  I found what I came looking for, and I was thrilled.  I decided not to go further but beyond chimney but just past it I caught a glimpse of what looked like a very long low-angle slab, and the cliff still continues on and on.  Despite it being early winter and somewhat warm that day, there was a lot of ice and I have a feeling it will continue to thicken up enough in the coming weeks to afford at the very least mixed conditions.  I’m sincerely hoping for an opportunity to try and put up some ice/mixed routes there this season.  I also plan on brushing the slab/overhung wall in the spring and exploring more of this rock before the vegetation and insects take it back.        
 
FACE - looking right
FACE - looking left
End of Face, Begin Overhanging Blocky Section
Overhanging Blocky Section - looking left
Chimney
Me, in front of chimney for perspective of size