Bittersweet Transitions

Spring is arriving today but so is an estimated 4 inches of snow.  Despite April being a little more than a week away, there still remains some climbable ice in my region.  The ravines in the Catskills still have some ice, and surely further north there’s enough to swing into.  I even got a text this morning, asking if I could get in just one more day this weekend.  Unfortunately, I can’t.  I’ve got too much going on at home, trying to stage my house for selling and looking at potential new homes with our realtor.  Grown-up stuff.  Hey, it happens to even the best of us.

A little over two weeks ago I decided that at some point, despite winter being so generous, that I have to hang up my spurs.  I can only use so many sick/vacation days from work.  I can only get away with leaving my wife with the kids so many weekends.  I wasn’t growing tired of climbing, but the exhaustion of a climbing day…the early starts, the long drives, and the cold starts to wear on me.

I wanted to finish strong.  So I asked August, my strongest partner, if was interested in swapping leads at The Narrows.  Conditions were super-fat and I knew I could handle being point man on all the lower pitches and defer to him the harder headwall pitches.

We started on The Main Gully, and I lead three pitches then went not harder than WI2+ up to the headwall where August took over.  The left-side of the Main Wall has a pretty long, pretty hard WI3+ route that August tackled with ease.  From there, we rappelled down and he gave the right side a go, again on WI3/3+. 



Start of Main Gully (my lead)

 



2nd Pitch of Main Gully (my lead)

Cruising up the last few tiers of Main Gully before the headwall pitches.

 

Main Gully Headwall Left (August's lead)

 

Following Main Gully Headwall Left

 

Right Side of Main Gully Headwall



August, rapping off.

Michael!



Next, we headed over to the Dead Deer Gully, which ironically, had a dead deer at near the bottom.  Again, I took lead on the lower pitch which was a little harder, WI3.  The next pitch was more of an ice scramble, but the two of us remained tied-in with the leader on belay.  When we reached the headwall, again August lead and styled impressively on a WI3 route.  I told him several times that day that his climbing and leading ability is outstanding.  I’m very thankful to have such a solid partner to climb with.

 

Start of Dead Deer Gully

Here's a short POV video of my leading the previously photographed section
1st Pitch of Dead Deer Gully, W12+/3

Icy Scrambling before Dead Deer Gully Headwall

Center Headwall Pitch of Dead Deer Gully

Right now, all of my rock and ice gear is stuffed in plastic storage bins, in a huge pile of bins, boxes, and stuff, being kept underneath a tarp in my garage which is currently under construction.  I’m used to seeing it all on the walls, hanging from pegboards.  I’m in the middle of a series of transitions…ice to rock, winter to spring, as well as preparing to leave one home for another.  The snow that’s forecasted to fall later today will surely be gone by the time this weekend rolls around, since temperatures will shoot into the low 50s.  Most people are frustrated with winter, and just want spring to finally begin.  I experienced my best climbing season ever on account of the winter being so cold, snowy, and icy.  For me, as always, it’s a little bittersweet.     

Love and Ice

My wife and I celebrated Valentine’s Day this year a week later than everyone else with a romantic getaway that included a concert in NYC, a day sampling wine and spirits in the Hudson Valley, and of course, a day of ice climbing in The Catskills.  This was my wife’s fourth time climbing ice in four years (her first time in two years) and I wanted to make sure she was comfortable so I hired a guide and planned our day around shorter routes we could reach with relatively easy hiking.  I also took advantage of the opportunity to climb somewhere new; The Lower Tier of the Dark Side (I’ve climbed the Upper Tier several times) and Platekill Falls. 

Temperatures that morning weren’t awful, but it wasn’t going to be a warm day by any stretch of the word.  The Dark Side is also dark, so we wouldn’t be getting any sunlight to warm us.  Luckily it wasn’t windy and I brought along extra layers and gloves for her.  She was an absolute trooper.  I know she was cold, but she didn’t complain.

We started with a short, but steep warm-up route (The Escalator, WI2+/3) and it seemed like she was going to do ok.  However when we got on an easier, low angle route, (Frozen Apples, WI2/3), she seemed to struggle.  I was worried she would become frustrated with the climbing but it turns out that she actually climbs better on steeper and more difficult terrain.  We switched over to Gold Leader, WI3+/4, and it seemed like the challenging ice actually forces her to climb better. 

 

Wifey, starting up The Escalator.

Me, on The Escalator

Wifey, with Alpine Endeavors Guide Alan Kline.

Frozen Apples.

Stylin' on Gold Leader!

Me, attempting a varation of Gold Leader that I was considering leading but felt the ice conditions weren't optimal. I'm cool with taking a pass. 

 

We decided to finish up the day by climbing out via Platekill Falls, WI3+.  The waterfall is minutes from where we parked and it would be a great way to end the day.  The waterfall was big and loud, but there was a wide groove variation that looked well within her abilities (WI3).  I took a lap up the waterfall (carrying up her pack for her) and then lowered off to pick up my backpack and climb up a steep section at the fall’s left margin which was a challenging WI4.

 

Happy Couple at the base of Platekill Falls.

Topped Out!

Finishing up a WI4 variation of Platekill Falls.

 

At the end of the day, my wife was exhausted and marveled at how I can do this sort of thing on a regular basis.  I tell her that it’s not for everyone.  She herself says she’s a “once a year ice climber” and I’m ok with that.  The fact that she supports me, and occasional joins me, is good enough for me.  But tying everything we did together, I think this was one of the best winter trips we’ve ever had.  And I know next year, I have her as a partner at least one day again!