Monday, October 27, 2014

Be Inspiring

Over the weekend I was fortunate to climb with my friend Jud and his son, his wife and daughter (they came along to watch and hike), as well as my wife and son.  We decided it would be best to carry my son in his kid-carrier pack, so my wife and I had to leave our daughter with her grandparents, since both of us would be carrying in packs.

We went to the local crag and the intent of the day was to let Jud’s son sample some more outdoor climbing (he’s only 9 years old, and mostly climbs indoors).  I also wanted my son to get outside to watch and scramble up some of the step-like gullies so he could “rock climb” too.  I also wanted my wife’s company and brought along her harness, shoes, and helmet hoping she might rope up.

Jud’s son climbed the 5-easy chimney route with ease and I coaxed my wife into giving it a try.  She was a bit nervous; she used to climb quite a bit in the gym but not much outside, and it’s been a while.  But she managed to send the route no problem and came down with a big smile on her face and later telling me “I’m back”, saying how she was looking forward to climbing again.  After that we climbed one of my favorite routes, a 5.6/7 corner climb that really challenged but stoked Jud’s son since the variety in holds and body positions is something you really can’t replicate in the gym. 

My son had a blast.  All he wanted to do was climb and I was very impressed by how well he can do it at just under 3 years old.  He’s very confident, sure-footed and careful (he gets a lot of practice climbing furniture).  I can’t wait until he’s big enough for a child’s harness. While I’ll never push him into doing anything, I can see he genuinely enjoys the outdoors, climbing, and doing adventurous and physical activities.

I’ve been bummed out lately by how I see a lot of parents interact with their young children, especially when it comes to fathers and sons.  I saw a pretty disappointing episode recently at a barber shop, while my son played with another boy his father (who was too occupied with his cellphone to see how well they were behaving) kept pulling him back in his chair and shushing him, then finally turning over the phone to the child with a video to halt his play and divert his attention. Why a dad would be annoyed by two boys just being boys – nobody else there seemed to mind either, all the other adults were watching them and smiling.  And the other day, at a child’s birthday party, seeing parents shut down their kids with iPads or their cellphones instead of letting them be kids or, what they should be doing, giving them the proper attention they need.  I’m not trying to rant, but while some people may think I’m crazy bringing my son climbing, I think people like me and Jud got it right when it comes to parenting versus those who’d rather let the TV, iPad, cellphone, or the internet be their children’s guide in life.  Jud spent a great deal of time explaining safety and the reasons behind our actions to his son, as a father should.  While my little guy is a bit too young for Climbing 101 or roping up, at the very least I’ll let him learn through playing, experience falling down-getting up, watch, and hopefully one day be inspired to try. 
 
The Little Guy who I'm trying to inspire, who inspires me.
 

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Powerlinez


A few years ago, Jon Crefeld wrote the first edition of the Powerlinez guidebook.  Not long after, access issues arose and climbing was put on hold. The Torne Valley Climbers Coalition, led by Jon, lobbied to have the ban lifted and in May, 2013, climbing finally became a legal activity.
 
Tower Wall
 
The Powerlinez is an interesting area. The main approach trail is literally underneath Power Lines and you can hear them buzzing and snapping overhead. The Tower Wall, the area’s largest wall, is one of the first things you’ll see walking up and it’s definitely an impressive piece of rock. Scattered throughout are boulder-like walls, 10-30+’ high, that offer either high-ball bouldering or short top-rope climbs. For the most part, I saw the landings were very flat and ideal for crash pads and spotters.  However, I’ve never been comfortable bouldering more than 10 feet, even with a diligent spotter and cushioned fall.
 
Power Lines, litearlly.

  
There are also several walls for roped climbing, and there’s even a sport climbing wall that was grandfathered in (bolting is not permitted). We set up on what I believe was the Three Bears Wall (far left of Tower wall), on a high-ball slab called the Free Fall Boulder, and the Basilisk Wall. Unfortunately, steady rain from the day before combined with lichen covered rock (due to the area being still relatively new to climbers) made the rock very spongey and slippery.  The Basilisk Wall would have been a great area to explore had the rock been dryer.  Another issue, again from the rock not being climbed, cleaned, and worn down, is the sharpness of holds and features. The rock is nearly razor sharp.  Over time, these factors will become less of an issue but it’s definitely something to be considered.
 


Chopper Noise, 5.9 on the Basilisk Wall. Very wet!
 
Free Fall Boulder, about 20-25'. Sharp and gritty. Climbed on Top-Rope.
What might be the "God Jam Crack". Stemming up to the ceiling, to a hand-jam crack, then face climbing traverse to top out. Good route!
 

I’d definitely like to visit this area again, preferably when it’s dry! There’s a ton of rock here and although I’ve never been one to boulder, the amount of rock that can be safely climbed with a spotter and pad shouldn’t be pass up on. In addition, I’d like to climb the Tower Wall. While I was never lost, finding my way around was difficult. I had trouble naming/placing walls and the only way I could see getting up to the top of most of the higher walls would involve a serious bushwhack and scramble. Having a partner who knows the area and can identify walls and routes would be very helpful.