Rock Adventures: Devil’s Kitchen Froze Over

On Wednesday, January 23 temperatures in the Catskills hovered in the single digits. The winter so many of us had been chasing for so long had finally arrived, and was now chasing after us. My partner for the day is veteran climber and 2012 AMGA President’s Award recipient Joe Vitti. The two of us braved the numbing cold and the steel-tempered ice in effort to embrace full-on-winter ice climbing on a day that for me, the conditions had been at their harshest. This would be my sixth time ice climbing (half of my ice climbing experiences were in the month of January 2013). Quite a difference from my rock climbing; I have spent somewhere around 50 days climbing outside and likely an equal amount of days climbing indoors.

Our day began in Devil’s Kitchen, located in Platte Cove. Joe and I rappelled into the gully right above Stairway to Heaven (WI3-4). The pillar on the lower section of this route was very narrow and made for difficult climbing, even when I used the rock wall nearby for footing. The ice was iron hard, and refused to yield to my axes. I would pound the ice only to have it break into pieces. Getting good “sticks” was tough, and by the time I had topped the pillar I was completely pumped with another 30 feet of climbing left. The upper section was in the sun and much softer but the ice was dripping and my face was getting splashed with freezing cold water. Stairway was a very, very tough climb to start the day with but once I finished and lowered I had at least warmed up quite a bit from the effort.

Stairway to Heaven

Joe and I moved into the lower section of Devil’s Kitchen by traversing over the top of the left side so we could again rappel down a route from the top. The next route, appropriately named Third Corner (WI4-), is part of a series of corner facing climbs along the left wall (left side, facing down into the gully). The wall includes the mega classic Catskills moderate, Purgatory (M5, WI5-). Third Corner felt more even and sustained then bottom-heavy Stairway, but the ice was just as dense and difficult to stick without having it shatter. On my first attempt I was exhausted just past the halfway point and came down for a rest. As I was being lowered, I heard voices coming from around the corner and saw that one of them was Ryan Stefiuk. I watched Ryan cruise up Purgatory on lead, completely amazed by his athleticism and poise. Refreshed by the spectacle, I finished Third Corner on my second go, but had to stop a few feet from the top as the ice was barley coating the blank rock wall. Most of the remaining climbs in Devil’s Kitchen were in the WI4 range so Joe suggested we go to another location, as I was struggling with that grade. I feel like WI4 is where I should be climbing comfortably by season’s end with a little more practice (WI5 is considered “moderate”). I’m not completely flailing, or failing at that grade, but it’s definitely challenging and takes a lot of energy. Again, I have to remind myself ice climbing is not rock climbing and I’m still new at it and have quite a lot to learn.

Third Corner

Exit, going "up" out of Devil's Kitchen (wall I climbed is on right)

A short drive from Platte Cove to Moore’s Bridge in Kaaterskill Clove allowed us to briefly warm up before trudging up the road to climb The Gully (WI2-3). The Gully is a long climb with several tiers before it becomes more sustained-vertical towards the top (top is definitely WI3). Joe lead and I followed cleaning gear. This climb was definitely more within my abilities but it was the end of a very cold, very long, and very difficult day and I found myself utterly exhausted as I closed in the last few feet that remained of the climb. Joe graciously lowered me off so I wouldn’t have to set up a rappel and I immediately began packing up my gear once I reached the ground. I was physically spent, absolutely chilled to the bone, and weary of my two and half hour drive to get back home. Despite being beat down by the weather and getting my ass kicked on the ice, I had a really good day and felt that by challenging myself on these harder routes I’ve gained more experience than I would have by playing it safe on easier routes. Joe and I said goodbye and I left with a feeling that I’m chipping away at this inexplicable goal I have with regards to my climbing…be it to become a better climber, a more experienced climber, or just well-traveled climber who has had his share of days, all varying in different degrees. Coming back to my house and seeing my wife, my son, and my two dogs can pretty much make any day, regardless of how it’s spent, a good one.