Rock Adventures: Th(in)

Ice is a capricious medium. Even when it’s “In”, it still plays host to a variety of unpredictable factors. And when it’s “Thin” and just barely climbable, it becomes even more volatile as its bond to the rock and physical structure may not support a climber’s weight and could easily break apart or completely detach from the wall. Conditions in the Catskills over the Martin Luther King Holiday weekend were severely compromised after several unseasonably warm days. My wife and I had booked an overnight getaway in nearby Saugerties (Diamond Mills – fantastic hotel and restaurant). After arriving on Saturday we hiked to the summit of Overlook Mountain and managed to stay very warm in soft-shell jackets over light baselayers, often hiking without our jackets on. We had planned to climb Sunday but with the warm temperatures and a warning that the ice wasn’t climbable, we were very unsure we could make it happen. But we made the trip and were determined to have a go at it. I called a local guide service and spoke with a guide who confirmed there was barely anything to climb. However, he said he could probably find us some ice…albeit thin, short and likely at a seldom visited, lesser-quality cragging area than an established location. And on that balmy Sunday morning, we lucked out.

I scheduled a half-day of climbing to accommodate my wife. She has ice climbed before, and was actually very excited to go. But a shorter day is much easier on her and we were both eager to get back to our 14-month old son, who we had left in the care of his Grandparents the day before. Our guide, Alan Kline (super cool guy) met us a few miles from Hunter Mountain at Maggie’sKrooked Café (awesome place). Earlier, he took a ride out to Stony Clove and said that there was some ice behind the lake area that may be worth checking out. A short hike through talus and boulders led to a series of rock outcrops and short cliffs. Some of the rock had a little bit of ice, but most were completely without. Situation wasn’t looking good, but Alan led us along. And I have to say, I was pretty damn amazed when he found us two small walls with climbable th(in) ice.

The day was perfect for my wife. The ice was soft; a waxy plastic texture that swallowed picks and points. The first wall we came to was divided by a ledge into two sections; the lower section was less than 20 feet and the upper section maybe just over 10 feet. The climbing was challenging enough without being too easy, and the short sections and rest ledge helped made it attainable for my wife to have several climbs. And after a few tries she figured it out and was getting solid sticks, working her crampons to get into good stances, and moving with real proficiency. Me? I was cruising. I had a couple of slips and needed rests to shake out my arms, but for me this was all fun.

Given the ice was so thin and the rock was peeking through, Alan suggested I try a mixed-line on the far left side of the face. The lower section was a very thin veil of ice…all light taps and delicate steps. The upper section was mostly exposed rock with the last few feet having a light coating of ice. I made it through the lower section rather quickly but the top would be a mixed-climbing “boulder problem” that I found to be extremely physical. I worked myself into a huge horizontal gap (at least two feet high) that created a roof-exit type of scenario onto overhanging terrain. I put my entire light leg into the gap and gently placed the front points of my right crampon on a weak curtain of ice. I managed to get up a step just as the curtain broke off but it revealed small steps just big enough to get the tips of my points on and I inched my way up into a comfortable stance. I was able to get my right tool was in a good ice placement and I worked my left tool until I had it torqued sideways in a horizontal crack. Moving up to the next move would be difficult but it was likely the second-before-the last set of moves before I would top out. I gripped my left tool (in the rock) and stood up on my toes to get my right tool higher. But as I did this my left tool popped out and the hammer side smashed into my upper lip. Stunned, I had to be lowered off. There was a cut in my moustache and inside of my lip was swollen, but I wasn’t injured. My first experience with dry tooling was definitely interesting. Alan told me the section I was climbing was pretty burly and that it was a proud attempt, and my wife seemed impressed by the effort.

We had climbed the wall from left to right (3 ice lines, 1 mixed line) and decided to move on to another wall we had passed earlier in the day. By then it was around 12pm and temps were nearly in the 50s. We attempted to climb a pillar formation but as I started up, ice began breaking off with every tool swing and my boots were swimming in slush. Then a big piece of ice came off and hit my already tender face and we pretty much knew then that the pillar would not stand if we climbed it. Our half day was about to end anyway, so nobody was complaining…in fact, we boasted of how lucky we were that day to find climbable ice that we had all to ourselves. The parking lot at Stony Clove was full of cars, and all day were heard the crashing of ice falling off the walls off the East and West Sides…must have been a miserable day for a lot of people. I am very thankful for my resourceful guide, very thankful for the luck we had, very thankful to not have suffered anything more than a superficial wound, and very thankful that my wife enjoyed herself on a memorable climbing day.