Acclimating

Most of the country, and without a doubt the North East, has suffered the past few weeks through a brutal heat wave.  Last week temperatures were in the mid-90’s and with the radiant sun and humidity the heat index reached the 100 degrees mark.  Power companies reported record usage last Friday when the heat index was a scorching 107 degrees.  To cope with the heat that day, I went for a run.  Yes, you read that correctly…I ran, two miles, in the 107 degree heat.  Why?  Simply in order to acclimate.  The body adapts to stress, and the intense heat is definitely a stress for many people especially those who spend the majority of their day shielded from the elements in the air conditioning.  I’m not advocating prolonged periods of high-intensity work or exercise in these conditions, but it is important to expose yourself throughout the day to the heat in order to better prepare yourself physiologically. Humans are well-adapted to the heat with our ability to sweat.  Hydrate, sweat, cool down, and repeat.  I attended Basic Combat Training in South Carolina, arriving in August.  A few days into boot camp I found myself in the hospital after suffering a heat stroke with an IV in my arm, not remember how I got there.  But not long after my daily regiment was hard work, training, and of course punishment in the hot southern summer sun.  I adapted, hydrated, worked, rested, and continued.  It’s called acclimating. 

On Sunday, I partnered up with PA local Larry S. to do some climbing at the Delaware Water Gap, this time on the Mount Minsi (PA) side which had been seasonally closed up until recently due to nesting raptors.  Larry and I met at The Gap last year and I have been in touch for a while sharing stories and beta, but this was our first time climbing together.  I would put Larry in the above-average category in terms of climbing strength and skill.  Yesterday’s temperature was mercifully cooler in the upper 80s and the humidity wasn’t too unbearable, but it was still hot!  The hike up the talus field of Mt. Minsi is short but very strenuous, easily soaking my bandana and shirt with sweat.  And the section we were climbing, the Teardrop Buttress, was facing the southern sun.  Thankfully we got some scattered cloud covering but at times we were in direct sun and climbing on hot rock.    

I repeated Teardrop Buttress, 5.3 G (it’s the name of that section of rock as well as a route) leading a short section, maybe 30 feet.  I had lead the lower part of this route before with Barry Rusnock latein 2012.  I haven’t been on the sharp end in some time, so a quick ascent on easy terrain to a somewhat comfortable belay with adequate protection was just enough to satisfy me.  Larry took over on Pitch 2 and pulled the crux bulge which Barry and I avoided by going right.  While following, I found that section to be about 5.8 difficult but it does take gear.  Not sure if I would lead through it myself, but I cleared it on top-rope. 

From the top of Teardrop Buttress the rappel line is between Tears Are Falling, 5.5 PG-13 and a gulley that forms the Minsi Curtain (ice).  I’ve wanted to climb Tears Are Falling, it’s a long somewhat slabby climb, but protection looks sparse and the upper section is rotten and broken rock.  I asked Larry if he wanted to drop a top-rope line on it but he said he would go ahead and lead it.  Protection was a little better than expected, but definitely PG-13.  A little more than halfway up the route is a ceiling and the guidebook says to move left to avoid the ceiling and carefully top-out through the open bowl section of rotten and loose rock.  Larry chose to climb through the ceiling and continue right, instead of left, through a thin slabby section before linking up with the upper arête of Teardrop Buttress about ten feet before the top out.  The ceiling is a bit reachy, but doable.  It’s about 10-15 long so there are a few options to climb through.  I found the face climbing above to be a bit thin and came to a crux just past some bushes I had pruned (yes, we carry pruners at The Gap). 

 

Larry putting in protection in the ceiling. Bushes to the right were pruned on my ascent.

 

Now, this is normally (well, more like recently) where I panic.  I’m more 100 feet off the ground, climbing an exposed cliff face overlooking several hundred feet, on thin holds, weakened and exhausted from the effort and heat, and about to make a difficult move.  But I was able to corral my fear this time.  I think I had built confidence earlier that day by leading (albeit a short lead) and climbing on familiar terrain.  In other words, I acclimated.  I mentally warmed-up and put myself in the zone for climbing.  From there I was able to focus on the moment, relax, think clearly and just keep my eyes on my hands and feet and concentrate on where they were going next.

 

Happy Climber!

 

Just before topping out Larry suggested I climb straight through another bulge, just to add a bit more difficulty.  I could have stepped to the right and avoided it but instead I smiled and went for the harder moves instead.    

 

View of the Delaware River from the top of Teardrop Buttress