Super Bowl

I had a lot going on over Super Bowl weekend but with careful planning was able to secure a few hours on Sunday to climb.  Usually, I get an early start.  I like to be out of the house by 7am, and back by lunch.  This past Sunday, I opted for a 9am start.  One of my partners, Cris, texted me at 7am, letting me know he was at our rendezvous spot.  Apparently, he didn’t get my message.  So, I spent the next two hours entertaining him in my living room while we waited for my other partner, John, who was coming from PA.  I explained to Cris in between sips of coffee while we watched a UFC event I recorded the night before (reason for my late start was I wanted to watch the fights in the morning) that John wasn’t crazy or poor, but he didn’t have proper ice boots and would be wearing ski boots.  John is a young college kid and he just started ice climbing this year.  He could count the pitches of ice he’s climbed on one hand.  He has axes, and he has crampons, but he hasn’t bought boots yet.  But, he assured me, that he used the ski boots before and they worked. 

I met John in November.  He’s a Gap regular and excellent trad climber.  He’s also into fly-fishing, so we’ve had the chance to hang out a few times.  And despite my initial apprehension, the ski boot-crampon thing actually worked.  Obviously, it’s not the most optimal set-up but I appreciate the kid’s willingness to go for it.  As I watched John on his 5^th, maybe 6^th pitch of ice, I  noticed that he has ability.  He’s green, but he moves well and doesn’t make a lot of the tell-tale mistakes you see novice ice climbers make (gets good sticks in the ice before moving, hangs on his tools properly).  After a few burns on Plush and the Corner Smear, I let him have a go at a pretty difficult ice/dry-tool route and the kid took to it like a natural.

 

Plush, in good shape.

Corner Smear, still kicking.

Far Right Mixed Route. Bottom hanger was especially fat and sturdy.

 

For me, it was just another day of training at the local crag.  We all got in a couple laps of ice on Plush and the Corner Smear, and then went for it on the ice/dry-tool route.  This was my second time climbing at the local crag this year, fifth day out climbing this winter.  Bringing new partners along helps with the monotony of climbing the same area, over and over.  I’m too grateful to ever say something like I’m getting bored and I enjoy climbing too much to really ever feel bored while I do it.  So I have a workman-like approach to this sort of climbing where I think more of the long-term benefit of all the repeated laps.

 

Yep, this kid is climbing ice in ski boots.

Cris, carefully scaling the hanger (in brand new boots).

Me, topping out on the hanger (I was the first one to climb it). The overhanging crack above is extremely physical.

 

In a few days, I plan on climbing another Catskill Ravine.  This means a long hike and lots of pitches.  I’m hoping to lead some of the easier stuff as well.  In preparation, outside of climbing, I’ve been hitting the weights and hang board.  I’ve been coming into work early to hit the stairs (today, I did 25 flights up and down) so I’ll have the legs and endurance for the hike in and out.  I know that winter will be over in a few more weeks and all the ice will gone for 10-11 months.  When it’s gone, I want to be satiated.  I want to know I climbed everything I could, and to the best of my ability.  This is my year to grow.