One of My Favorite Pieces of Gear

Climbers lover their gear and love to sing praises of their most trusted pieces.  Climbers went head-over-heels for release of the GriGri 2 and others swore by the original, which is still on the market.  Trad Climbers still use and stand by their original Aliens or Friends, having only replaced the worn out slings.  These are some examples of diehard mainstays that may only need a few minor tweaks and upgrades through the years as their original concepts were genius designs.  An often overlooked and critical piece of climbing equipment often left out of this discussion is the Carabineer.  Aside from the development of twist locks, hood wires, grid locks, and now the new magnetic lockers, the fundamental principles for use remains the same with new and improved features continually making them lighter, stronger, safer, and easier to open, shut, and lock.  Probably my favorite carabineer and also one of my favorite pieces of gear is the Omega Pacific Five-O Wiregate Carabineer.  It’s not my belay biner and it’s usually not part of my master point.  But it’s still a critical work horse serving multiple purposes.    

The strength ratings are nothing extraordinary: 25kN Major Axis, 8kN Minor Axis, and 7kN Open Gate.  It’s large for a Wiregate.  The Five-O weighs 1.7 ounces and is 4.27 inches in length, 2.69 inches in width and has a monstrous1.26 inch Gate Opening, one of its most redeeming qualities.  I can’t stress how ideal the biners are for racking rock pro.  Black Diamond Oval Wires were my original go-to biners for racking until I realized not only how much more the Five-O could rack but also how much easier it is to handle due to its size and gate opening.  Another attribute to their size is how well they can carry a Clove Hitch, especially if you want to back it up with an overhand or figure-eight knot.  A task usually limited to larger and heavier lockers. 

Racked Loosely - 3 C3s, 3 C4s, 3 Master Cams (x2) / 6 Stoppers, 4 Stoppers, 4 Tri Cams

Surprisingly, I have yet to see anyone else carrying one of these but everyone who’s seen mine in use really seem to like them.  I know smaller and lighter wire carabineers, like Camp Nanos, are often the choice for trad climbers.  But having a few Five-O’s on your harness might be worth the few extra ounces of weight.  Check them out for yourself!       

 

OP Five-O, BD Oval Wire, BD Live Wire 

 

Betty

Redpoint - To complete while placing protection on a lead climb after making previous unsuccessful attempts, done without falling or resting on the rope. (wikipedia.com)

Named after Betty Woolsey who completed the first ascent in the 1940’s, “Betty” is a popular beginner lead climb located in The Trapps (Gunks, NY).  For the first twenty or so feet I followed a wide crack capped by a small boulder then on to a small ledge with bit of rock scrambling over scattered blocks.  From here, I climbed left (right would be on less protected face climbing) pulling on flakes up until reaching a short ledge, traversing right to the belay tree. 

 

Prior to leading, I had climbed this route on Top Rope a total of 4 times (last time doing a mock lead) on two separate visits.  It’s a pretty straightforward climb with relatively comfortable gear placing stances.  It’s a bit ledgey so falls should definitely be avoided.  Probably the most challenging move or moves are just before the reaching the very top of large crack system.  I found myself employing the “chicken wing” as it is a bit of an offwidth climb.  After pulling through the crack and clearing the blocks, it's much easier to place gear staying to the left instead of venturing out to the slabby right side (which is still only 5.3-5.4 climbing).

Cleaning the first pitch in back in August 2012

 



Working up the nerve to lead obviously took time.  I wanted to be absolutely sure I was comfortable with all the moves, stances, and placements.  The day I lead it I literally walked right up to the route from my car and cruised to the top.  My eleven or so placements were a bit on the overcautious side but it kept my mind at ease.  And honestly, I was mentally comfortable the entire climb - which I believe is an absolute requisite.  I felt prepared, sure of myself and steady as I moved with a calm sense of purpose as opposed to winging it and taking chances.  Today was a great success, and I’m very happy to share the story of my first lead climb.  The remainder of that gorgeous October day was spent under a blanket of yellow autumn leaves climbing the routes “Jackie” and “Ribs” with two of my partners and one of their friends whose first climbing experience could not have come on a better day. 

 

 View from the top, Redpoint on October 16, 2012

Duobus Annis

I decided on October 3, 2010 that I was going to become a Rock Climber.

For my 31^st birthday my wife and I signed up for an EMS Rock Climbing Clinic at Allamuchy State Park.  It was a random decision to try something new and exciting.  I remember saying something along the lines of “I’m getting older I need to go climb some mountains”. It wasn’t just the climbing as much as it was the knots, the rope anchoring, and the rappel rigging that grabbed my interest.  I spent the next few days watching YouTube videos and practicing knots with paracord, determined to master the Figure-8 and Alpine Butterfly.  This quickly led to browsing related video searches and coming across Chris Sharma climbing “Dreamcatcher”.  Before I knew it I had signed us up for a second clinic with EMS at Ralph Stover.  That trip scared me.  The day was cold, the cliff was high, the rock wasn’t as grippy, and I dared to say out loud what I’m sure my wife and I were both thinking, “why are we doing this?”. 

 

Restart.  Recover.  We joined and climbing gym and by early spring 2011 I was building my own top-ropes and learning the ways of the rock at a little dirty cliff less than 30 minutes from my house.

 

And here I am now, two years later and still as enthusiastic as the morning I crept up the trail on Allamuchy Mountain.  I began a blog thinking I would have fantastic tales of “rock adventures” and scores of high quality action photos and dramatic videos of mind blowing sends. The reality is that I’m not a Pro Climber, and I’m not climbing hardcore and really don’t have it in me to push my climbing into that level anyway.  I’ve only documented my first multi-pitch (I’ve since repeated Triumvirate) and an excellent ice day since I felt these were meaningful trips.  Otherwise I have spent countless of days on rock.  Most aren’t worth posting because I’m on rather pedestrian routes.  But I decided from now on I’m going to tell some of my tales anyway.  My epics are unique to me.  My stories are mine to share, and I’m happy to share them with those who want to hear them. 

My biggest challenges now are finding the confidence to lead, scheduling with partners, and having the time to climb regularly in order to maintain a decent level of climbing fitness.  The summer of 2012 was bleak in terms of climbing.  I had to consider taking the time away from my wife and son, dealing with the heat, rain, and even hail (see repeat of Triumvirate).  I also suffered a pretty severe abdominal strain in late June and had to nurse it for several weeks.  

 

As of now, I’m back on track.  I’ve been gym climbing more and have a handful of prepaid visits remaining that I’ve been able to use here and there during the week on days when my wife is working from home.  In the past 45 days I’ve ticked 5 routes in The Gunks and even managed to squeeze in a long route on Mt Minsi one morning before visiting my Father.  In the coming weeks, as the wonderful climbing season of autumn approaches, I have climbing days scheduled and my eye on ice forming early this year in the Catskills (fingers crossed!). 

So, here’s to Two Years of Climbing.  Good days, bad days, fun days, long days, hard days, hot days, cold days, wet days, but all days spent doing something I set out to do for some reason…I still don’t know why I climb.  The question is often asked, the responses are always varied.  The motivation is unexplained.  I guess it’s just because it’s who I am, Rock Climber.