Betty

Redpoint - To complete while placing protection on a lead climb after making previous unsuccessful attempts, done without falling or resting on the rope. (wikipedia.com)

Named after Betty Woolsey who completed the first ascent in the 1940’s, “Betty” is a popular beginner lead climb located in The Trapps (Gunks, NY).  For the first twenty or so feet I followed a wide crack capped by a small boulder then on to a small ledge with bit of rock scrambling over scattered blocks.  From here, I climbed left (right would be on less protected face climbing) pulling on flakes up until reaching a short ledge, traversing right to the belay tree. 

 

Prior to leading, I had climbed this route on Top Rope a total of 4 times (last time doing a mock lead) on two separate visits.  It’s a pretty straightforward climb with relatively comfortable gear placing stances.  It’s a bit ledgey so falls should definitely be avoided.  Probably the most challenging move or moves are just before the reaching the very top of large crack system.  I found myself employing the “chicken wing” as it is a bit of an offwidth climb.  After pulling through the crack and clearing the blocks, it's much easier to place gear staying to the left instead of venturing out to the slabby right side (which is still only 5.3-5.4 climbing).

Cleaning the first pitch in back in August 2012

 



Working up the nerve to lead obviously took time.  I wanted to be absolutely sure I was comfortable with all the moves, stances, and placements.  The day I lead it I literally walked right up to the route from my car and cruised to the top.  My eleven or so placements were a bit on the overcautious side but it kept my mind at ease.  And honestly, I was mentally comfortable the entire climb - which I believe is an absolute requisite.  I felt prepared, sure of myself and steady as I moved with a calm sense of purpose as opposed to winging it and taking chances.  Today was a great success, and I’m very happy to share the story of my first lead climb.  The remainder of that gorgeous October day was spent under a blanket of yellow autumn leaves climbing the routes “Jackie” and “Ribs” with two of my partners and one of their friends whose first climbing experience could not have come on a better day. 

 

 View from the top, Redpoint on October 16, 2012