Respect The Small Stuff

This past Sunday, August and I got together for a quick early morning ice climbing session at the local crag.  Because of its close proximity for the both of us, a short approach (careful crossing of a running stream), and quick set-up, we can get away with 2-3 hour visits and still be home in time for lunch.  The two of us met at 730am and we’re back in the car by 1030am.  It really doesn’t get any easier than that.

Aside from the logistics, however, the climbing on Sunday was not as easy.  The Plush line was as steep and as featureless as I’ve ever seen it.  The Lower Wall is slightly canted to face North West, and the day time sun angles just enough to not shine on the ice directly.  It does shine directly on the ground above the ice, right where the drainage that forms the ice flows sits.  The daytime warm sun on the snow above combined with the nighttime chill over the past few days created a shell of clear ice, smooth as glass.  The right side variation was now nearly vertical and with several rounded bulges.  There were no ledges to allow you to rest your weight on your feet.  And the in-your-face bulges, which may not be obvious in the pics, forced us to weigh our upper bodies on our tools.  So despite its height, these attributes made the route incredibly strenuous and a challenge to climb continuously.  Right side variation, easily 4+.   

 

Steep and Smooth.

 The left side, which is a thin pillar flanked by a rock face, was not much easier.  If you stem (one leg on ice, other leg outstretched on the rock), it’s not too difficult.  If you stay on the ice the entire time, it’s a narrow climb and dead vertical for about ten feet.  Past the vertical section, and only a few feet from the top, there are more options for feet and stances become wider.  We finished up the day on this route, August ended by running three straight laps up and down without unclipping from the rope in order to get the most burn for his buck.

Easier variation a few feet to the left (Not Shown - we had placed a directional extending the rope left).  Obvious missing chunk of ice in the middle (this was taken just after I rappelled down). 

 

Even though our day was just a lot of laps on two short routes, something interesting and worth mentioning happened just before starting.  To build the anchor, the two of us walk around and then up the cliff.  It’s steep and icy, but not really treacherous or anything sketchy.  But, it’s definitely easier and quicker going up then it is down.  So, normally we rappel from the top instead of walking back down.  While rappelling, a huge chunk of ice broke off and landed on my shin. It was pretty painful, but I was able to walk it off and climb without it bothering me.  However, that ice could have fell on my head or neck and even with a helmet I might have been seriously hurt.  For one, I ALWAYS wear a helmet while climbing and near a cliff.  Rock or ice.  Two, while rappelling (no matter how short of a rappel) I always have a Prusik below my belay/rappel device which functions as a dead-man’s hand in case I were to lose control of my rappel or become unconscious.  And it’s worth noting, while rappelling I was moving at a slow and controlled pace and checking for weak ice that would be over our heads and could break while we’d be climbing.  The piece of ice that broke off came unexpectedly just moments after I had touched it.  It’s important to remember that ice is dangerous and unpredictable and should always be respected.   

 

August, who stands over 6ft tall, holding just a part of the huge chunk of ice that fell on me.