Furloughed

Tuesday, October 1^st due to a “lapse in appropriations”, the Government temporarily shut down and I was without a job.  The previously mentioned phrase in quotations was penned by someone a few pay grades above me, and I had been directed to insert that into my email’s out-of-office reply.  I think that a lapse in appropriations hardly describes the fuck up that the shutdown truly was.  I’m not one to discuss or even preach politics, so I’ll leave that to someone more enthusiastic.  But what I am up for is climbing!  And although I couldn’t climb every day of the shutdown, I managed to get in a couple days among other activities like CrossFit, Hiking, Shooting, Cooking, Cleaning, Pumpkin Picking, Wine Tasting, Movie Going, along with straight up chilling and relaxing.  For me, despite financial and employment related stresses, it was like being on summer vacation.  Two weeks of freedom from work and believe me, I took full advantage of the time I was given.

My first day of climbing was at Allamuchy with Andrew and his friend Jake, who happens to be an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor.  Allamuchy is one of the most popular climbing areas in New Jersey, especially for climbing guides who bring first timers to the Practice Wall.  Several years ago, my wife and I went here for our first climbing experience and the rest is history.  We spent a rather warm day climbing the slabby Main Wall, which was unfortunately (or should I say, seasonally) under attack by black wasps.  Despite the buzzing insects threating us, nobody was stung and we had a pretty intense day inching up the rock on its difficult thin holds.  Allamuchy is notorious for burning out calf muscles as climbers dig their toes into the rock on dime-sized smears while finger tips attempt to pull on little bumps and thin edges.  I was very impressed with Jake who made short work of the classic Hourglass, 5.8 and attempted to find purchase on the nearly blank face of A Year in the Life, 5.10. 

 

Jake, looking for somewhere to start on A Year in the Life, 5.10

 

My next day out I decided to meet up with a new climbing partner and visit Mocanaqua, PA.  Mocanaqua is a two and half hour drive, but the area has several climbing walls and pretty impressive bouldering area so I thought it would be worth the ride.  My partner, Kyle, and I had tried for this trip several months back but it ended up raining on our scheduled day so this meet up was long overdue.  I was very impressed with Mocanaqua’s Main Wall, where we spent the day climbing.  The rock is similar to the Gunks, in terms of its quality and has excellent climbing features although some of rock is unfortunately polished and slippery due to overuse.  This is more common on popular routes, especially close to the ground.  Kyle and I set up a random top-rope over an interesting section of rock (no clue as to the route, or grade of climb) climbing a bulging face with sharp crimps and an overhanging inside corner.  Eventually we sought out the wall’s most popular climb, Pizza Crack, 5.6.  Pizza Crack is a fantastic route but it’s one of the hardest 5.6 climbs I’ve ever done.  The climb starts on thin holds with very slippery feet.  As the route climbs it leans right into a crack, which makes it very balancey.  Higher up there’s a flake system and the rock is much more gritty and easier to smear your feet on.  But this is definitely a classic and should be added to any climber’s tick list when visiting the area.  



Kyle, below Pizza Crack. The bright streaks low on the climb are the polished sections of rock.



 

The furlough is over now and I’m back to work, and that’s just life.  Not everyone catches this sort of break and I’m happy to say that I made the most of it.  The weather continues to cool, the leaves and starting to turn and fall, and the climbing season of Autumn in now in full swing.  I still have weekends, along with vacation and sick days that I can use.  I plan on returning to Mocanaqua before winter, possibly for a day of bouldering.  I am also looking forward to finally visiting an area in NJ that my friend Andrew has been not only developing, but working on getting open to the climbing community. 

Until my next climb!