A couple
weeks ago, I managed to free up a few hours.
Just enough time to drive to the local crag, hike to the rock, set up
one top-rope line, and run two laps each with a partner. It left me, shall I say, unfulfilled. To hell with it, I said. I’m taking a day off to climb and I’m going
to get the most out of it.
Most
climbing days, there isn’t much of a game plan.
But since this would be my first day in a while, and maybe only day for
some time, I put some thought into it.
Knowing how I get with heights, I set a strict limit on single pitch
climbing. I also decided to break with
my usual 5.5 or less pattern and focus on climbing a few grades harder. For some reason, I’ve always held back in
terms of difficulty.
The day
started with Something Interesting, a 5.7+.
I spied this route while on Three Pines and thought the line looked
beautiful. The climbing was rather
sustained at a moderate degree of difficulty, until the crux. If I remember correctly, it was bad feet, and
overhang, and a long reach to a somewhat sloping opening of rock that kinda
resembled a crack. Or, maybe I’m wrong? Next, I climbed Snooky’s Return, 5.8. Named for Oscar “Snooky” Dorfman, not the
reality TV star. This route was made up
of more delicate face-climbing movements than Something Interesting which was
more “grabby”. I’m not sure which style
I prefer more, but after sending two routes above my normal difficulty level, I
was feeling really good about myself.
Which brings
me now to Middle Earth, 5.6. I took one
look at this route and decided I was going to lead it. I haven’t lead rock in a very long time, but
was feeling confident in my ability to not only climb a 5.6 onsight, but to be
able to protect it. The route started
easy enough before I encountered my first crux, a long vertical crack. I tried placing a stopper but it was a little
too shallow and for a brief moment, I felt like I could take a fall. I immediately dismissed the thought and made
a move, instantly finding solid feet and took the time to place the
stopper. Shortly thereafter I found
myself a second crux, a thin face that would require me to climb a few feet
more than I’d rather above my last piece of gear. I susssed out the first moves rather gingerly
before committing and eventually got in a stance to place a large cam and
rested. The remaining route was good
gear between steady movements. I wore a
Go Pro for this climb and looking back at the footage, I’m impressed with my
ability to remain focused and commit.
The holds and feet were adequate but this was no gimme. It took a tremendous amount of focus to calm
my nerves as I climbed higher above the deck.
Once I topped-out, I was exhausted and thrilled. This was the medicine I needed - to focus,
single-minded, and be in the moment and allow the best version of myself to
take over. I’m very proud of this climb.
Next, I
climbed Absurdland, 5.8. Getting off the
ground is the crux of this climb and I sent it rather quickly along with the boulder
follow-up moves before resting on the rope.
The top section is fantastic climbing.
Claiming this route here was yet another confidence boost.
The day
wrapped up with Jackie, 5.5. A few years
ago, I got stuck on this route…call it fear of commitment. This time around, I was able to send it but
to my surprise this route was a lot more difficult than I would expect a 5.5 to
be. Still, I found it to be a fantastic
route but would probably grade it more like 5.7.
After
Jackie, I decided to call it a day. I
was spent from the effort, adrenaline, and heat. Hands down, my best day on rock in
years. Onsighting Middle Earth was
probably my biggest rock climbing accomplishment and I’m looking forward to
leading more routes and trying harder lines.
I have a birthday trip coming up in September to the Adirondacks,
something I’ll post about once I return.
I’ve been preparing myself physically for some challenging hiking that
will occur on this trip, but as far as climbing goes I’m hoping to get at least
one more day out and continue on this path of success.
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| Catching up on Something Interesting, 5.7+ |
